Riz
7th August 2007, 03:23 PM
Many flowers and vegetables are started indoors. But, do you know the reasons and benefits that will help you determine which plants to start indoors?
First, the growing season in many areas is shorter than the time the plant needs to produce flowers or fruit. Indoor planting allows many gardeners to grow plants and varieties that are not native to their area.
Extending the harvest is another major reason why gardeners will start their seedling indoors. Many flowers and vegetables will produce weeks earlier if planted indoors. Marigolds for example, will benefit by flowering earlier than if direct sowed and will continue to produce flowers right up to the first frost.
Everyone wants that first tomato of cucumber of the season. It tastes so delicious and we can hardly wait. And, there is friendly neighborhood pride and bragging rights associated with being the first to produce fruit for the season.
Healthier seedlings make for stronger and better plants. Healthy children make strong adults. We have been saying this for years and years. The same applies in the plant world. Give a seedling a healthy start, and it will pay you dividends all season long. That healthy start comes in the from of a controlled, indoor environment.
Simply because it's fun. Like any hobby, gardeners really enjoy their sport. To some it's the challenge of growing difficult to start petunias or peppers, and putting out a seedling that is better that you can find in any gardening store. To others, it is a way of extending the hobby into those late winter and early spring months when most gardeners are chomping at the bit to get some dirt under their fingernails.
When to Start Indoors: The general rule of thumb is to start transplants indoors six to eight weeks before the last frost date for your area. Some plants such as peppers and petunias require more. Other plants, like the cabbage family and head lettuce, require less. Some people will do a series of plantings, especially for lettuces and cabbages, to create succession plantings and to extend the harvest. Ten heads of lettuce in two weeks is just too much for most families. But, a couple heads a week is just fine.
The seed packet will give some indication of indoor planting times and experimentation will also help you to fine tune when to start.
Planting and Germination:
The essentials for good germination when planting indoors are:
Viable seeds- Good seeds that are not hollow, and are not so old that germination rates are poor. Some seed can remain viable for years if stored properly. Others normally last only a season in storage.
Soil- A good, seed starting mixture that is light and sterilized.
Water- The soil should be moist, but not soaked.
Warmth- Here is where growers can add to their success. The ideal seed starting temperatures vary by type of seed. Most are between 70 to 85 degrees farenheit. Some seeds, like peas and early season vegetables, will germinate at a lower soil temperatures, even as low as fifties. Others, like pumpkins and peppers, need temperatures on the higher end to induce them to sprout. Seeds can be germinated outside of their ideal range, but the further away from the ideal range for the particular seed, the lower the germination rate.
Tip: Test your seed for viability in advance, especially if you have saved seed from last year. Plant a few seeds well before the normal planting time. Count the number you planted and the number that germinate. The resulting percentage is your expected germination rate.
Here is our recommended step by step instructions to maximize germination:
Purchase sterilized seed starting mixture. This is a light weight medium that has all the nutrients your seed needs at birth. Experienced growers will often create their own or amend store bought soil. This is part of the fun of planting for experienced garden hobbiests. If you are a new grower, stick with the seed starting mix until you gain some experience .
Select the right containers. So what's the big deal? If you select a container that is too small, your seedling can outgrow it's home before you are ready to transplant. A root bound seedling does not translate into maximum growth. Large paper mache or peat pots promote more open development of roots, but separating individual plants later, can result in tearing of roots and increased transplant shock. Using the individualized seed pots and trays helps to minimize transplant shock.
Fill the containers with the seed starting mix and water thoroughly. Make sure the soil is wet, but not soaking.
Plant the seeds. Another seemingly easy step. But new gardeners have a habit of planting seeds too deep. We recommend planting seeds a little less than the recommended depth. You can carefully add soil around the seedlings at a later point if needed.
Provide bottom warmth to the seeds. Some people use a heating mat, while others put them on top of a warm oven, by the fireplace, or in a sunny window, skipping the expense of a heating mat or other devices.
Creating a seed incubator is also popular. Create a wooden or plastic enclosure large enough to hold the containers you are using. Put a light inside the enclosure. The heat from the light will raise the temperature and create a greenhouse effect. It is important to measure the temperature to make sure it does not get too warm. Temperature will vary depending upon room temperature, wattage of light bulb and size for the enclosure.
Now the wait begins! The time required to germinate may be a few days to a few weeks. Germination time varies widely. It can usually be found on the seed packet. For seeds with a long germination period, we recommend you plant in smaller groups over a couple of weeks. This way if the first group does not germinate, you won't be waiting three weeks to find out and before starting a new planting.
TIP: Coat the seeds with Captan to protect against mold and fungus growth. Or buy pre-treated seeds where available. Fungus problems are common with indoor planting.
First, the growing season in many areas is shorter than the time the plant needs to produce flowers or fruit. Indoor planting allows many gardeners to grow plants and varieties that are not native to their area.
Extending the harvest is another major reason why gardeners will start their seedling indoors. Many flowers and vegetables will produce weeks earlier if planted indoors. Marigolds for example, will benefit by flowering earlier than if direct sowed and will continue to produce flowers right up to the first frost.
Everyone wants that first tomato of cucumber of the season. It tastes so delicious and we can hardly wait. And, there is friendly neighborhood pride and bragging rights associated with being the first to produce fruit for the season.
Healthier seedlings make for stronger and better plants. Healthy children make strong adults. We have been saying this for years and years. The same applies in the plant world. Give a seedling a healthy start, and it will pay you dividends all season long. That healthy start comes in the from of a controlled, indoor environment.
Simply because it's fun. Like any hobby, gardeners really enjoy their sport. To some it's the challenge of growing difficult to start petunias or peppers, and putting out a seedling that is better that you can find in any gardening store. To others, it is a way of extending the hobby into those late winter and early spring months when most gardeners are chomping at the bit to get some dirt under their fingernails.
When to Start Indoors: The general rule of thumb is to start transplants indoors six to eight weeks before the last frost date for your area. Some plants such as peppers and petunias require more. Other plants, like the cabbage family and head lettuce, require less. Some people will do a series of plantings, especially for lettuces and cabbages, to create succession plantings and to extend the harvest. Ten heads of lettuce in two weeks is just too much for most families. But, a couple heads a week is just fine.
The seed packet will give some indication of indoor planting times and experimentation will also help you to fine tune when to start.
Planting and Germination:
The essentials for good germination when planting indoors are:
Viable seeds- Good seeds that are not hollow, and are not so old that germination rates are poor. Some seed can remain viable for years if stored properly. Others normally last only a season in storage.
Soil- A good, seed starting mixture that is light and sterilized.
Water- The soil should be moist, but not soaked.
Warmth- Here is where growers can add to their success. The ideal seed starting temperatures vary by type of seed. Most are between 70 to 85 degrees farenheit. Some seeds, like peas and early season vegetables, will germinate at a lower soil temperatures, even as low as fifties. Others, like pumpkins and peppers, need temperatures on the higher end to induce them to sprout. Seeds can be germinated outside of their ideal range, but the further away from the ideal range for the particular seed, the lower the germination rate.
Tip: Test your seed for viability in advance, especially if you have saved seed from last year. Plant a few seeds well before the normal planting time. Count the number you planted and the number that germinate. The resulting percentage is your expected germination rate.
Here is our recommended step by step instructions to maximize germination:
Purchase sterilized seed starting mixture. This is a light weight medium that has all the nutrients your seed needs at birth. Experienced growers will often create their own or amend store bought soil. This is part of the fun of planting for experienced garden hobbiests. If you are a new grower, stick with the seed starting mix until you gain some experience .
Select the right containers. So what's the big deal? If you select a container that is too small, your seedling can outgrow it's home before you are ready to transplant. A root bound seedling does not translate into maximum growth. Large paper mache or peat pots promote more open development of roots, but separating individual plants later, can result in tearing of roots and increased transplant shock. Using the individualized seed pots and trays helps to minimize transplant shock.
Fill the containers with the seed starting mix and water thoroughly. Make sure the soil is wet, but not soaking.
Plant the seeds. Another seemingly easy step. But new gardeners have a habit of planting seeds too deep. We recommend planting seeds a little less than the recommended depth. You can carefully add soil around the seedlings at a later point if needed.
Provide bottom warmth to the seeds. Some people use a heating mat, while others put them on top of a warm oven, by the fireplace, or in a sunny window, skipping the expense of a heating mat or other devices.
Creating a seed incubator is also popular. Create a wooden or plastic enclosure large enough to hold the containers you are using. Put a light inside the enclosure. The heat from the light will raise the temperature and create a greenhouse effect. It is important to measure the temperature to make sure it does not get too warm. Temperature will vary depending upon room temperature, wattage of light bulb and size for the enclosure.
Now the wait begins! The time required to germinate may be a few days to a few weeks. Germination time varies widely. It can usually be found on the seed packet. For seeds with a long germination period, we recommend you plant in smaller groups over a couple of weeks. This way if the first group does not germinate, you won't be waiting three weeks to find out and before starting a new planting.
TIP: Coat the seeds with Captan to protect against mold and fungus growth. Or buy pre-treated seeds where available. Fungus problems are common with indoor planting.